Yvonne Léon was born into jewellery, but what she makes now, under her own name, is crafting her own unique legacy. Her jewellery carries echoes of the past, shaped by afternoons spent wandering through the flea markets of France, where she learned to see value in the forgotten. She doesn’t simply borrow from vintage aesthetics; she reshapes them, turning tradition inside out. The result is a collection of contradictions—playful yet timeless, familiar but never predictable—pieces that have found admirers across the world. Among them is Leith Clark, who chose Léon’s Malachite Heart Ring, along with several other treasures, for her 150 for 150 Anniversary edit.

Now, in Léon’s Parisian studio, the two sit together, talking through the quiet magic of creation—the way an idea becomes an object, how the past lingers in the present, and why, sometimes, the most unexpected combinations turn out to be the most enduring.

How long have you been creating jewellery?

I began 12 years ago. I started alone but I come from a family of jewellers, and my parents owned a vintage shop here in Paris, which made it much easier to begin in this world. From the age of 6 or 7, I would go with my family to the shop every week and see all the amazing jewellery. Now, I’m building something of my own, year by year.

Are your parents still involved now?

My father is still involved and he gives me a lot of advice. He knows everything about technique, so it’s great to have his help.

Did you always want to be in jewellery?

No, I went to fashion school to study design, and thought I would make clothing. But in the end I took the opportunity to help my family instead, and it just felt natural to create jewellery.

What were your first designs or pieces?

It was a remodel of a piece my father created for my mother in the 80s. It hung just below the ear, with a line of diamonds. I took his model and over time, I’ve added other elements like a bee, a butterfly and some pearls. I began my company with those designs.

What is your starting point for creation?

I begin to make a moodboard with all my desires and inspiration. I take different details from all sorts of places, maybe a lamp, for example, or a chair, or vintage pieces. I love to create stories with my collections, so that’s always my starting point.

And it seems like you like to play with size?

I love to work with size, creating mini versions and maxi versions of different models for the different collections.

How do you introduce your designs to the world?

Naturally, I wear them. I want to see them in the real world, and see if there is anything that needs rearranging. And then I show them to my staff for feedback which is so important. After that, we present the collection at Fashion Week.

How big are your collections?

At the beginning, my collections would include 10 or 15 models, but now I make so many. And I curate five collections a year, which is a lot but I always want to create. I always have ideas.

How long has your jewellery been in Liberty?

We launched in Liberty three or four years ago. We love the buying team there, it’s a pleasure to collaborate with them. The store is gorgeous; it’s always a pleasure to be there. And now, we have a ‘shop-in-shop’ which gives us a chance to show off more of our collection with more space.

Do you make any pieces inspired by vintage jewellery you saw when you were little?

Definitely. For example, the Berlingot ring. I remember my mother had a ring with this texture of gold. The light would catch it in the most beautiful way.

As you used to work in fashion, would you ever make clothes again?

Yes, I would love to. But always alongside jewellery, as a combination. I have big ideas, but let’s see…

Liberty 150 by Leith Clark.